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| FAQ's |
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| Please select your area of interest from the below topics. |
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Aromatherapy Questions
Beekeeping Questions
Body Care Questions
Candle Making Questions
HONEYSTIX Questions
HONEY Questions
Soap Making Questions
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| Aromatherapy Questions |
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| What are essential oils? |
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Essential oils are extracts from natural sources such as plants, leaves, tress and flowers. True essential oils are 100% pure and undiluted. All Golden Lane's Essential Oils are 100% pure, undiluted oils without any added water, alcohol or extenders.
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| What are the most popular essential oils you sell? |
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We at have found that Lavender, Sandalwood, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Rosemary, Tea Tree, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Lemon & Grapefruit essential oils are the most commonly requested here at GloryBee.
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| Beekeeping Questions |
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| What do I need to keep bees? |
We recommend that initially, you should have the following items:
- One standard ten frame hive with a top, a bottom, frames, foundation, and nails. This box will be used as the brood chamber where your queen bee will lay her eggs and where new bees will be raised.
- A hive tool for prying frames apart when you are inspecting your hive.
- A bee smoker to subdue bees when inspecting the hive or taking honey off.
- An entrance reducer to provide insulation in the winter.
- A bee hat and veil to protect your face.
- Gloves to protect your hands.
- A feeder for feeding your bees sugar syrup until they can start collecting nectar.
- Bees. We recommend to purchase a 3 lb. package which contains about 10,000 bees. Arrangements to purchase bees should be made sometime in February or March. Don't wait too long because your bees will need enough time to build combs and raise new bees before the main honey flow.
- A beginner's book on Beekeeping. We recommend "First Lessons in Beekeeping" by Dadant.
As your hive grows, you will need to purchase more equipment which may include an additional full depth super for your bees to raise additional brood if they have run out of room in the initial hive, two western supers with frames and foundation for your bees to store honey in, a queen excluder to keep your queen bee from laying eggs in the honey supers, and a bee escape screen which allows the bees to get out of the western supers when it is time to take the honey off. Other items that are very important to purchase after the first honey flow are medications including Apistan Strips, Terramycin, Menthol crystals, and Fumidil-B. These medications are very important to protect your bees from the various pests and diseases that can affect them.
This provides you with the general information needed to get started. If you need additional information, please email us. GloryBee offers excellent Beginners Complete Beekeeping Kit, complete with all the items we recommended above.
The Following Table Is A Generalized Treatment Schedule
For Honey Bee Diseases And PestsFor Honey Producing Colonies in Temperate Climates |
| Season |
Indicator |
Treat For |
Comments |
| Late Winter |
1st Pollen Source |
Varroa, American Foulbrood, European Foulbrood, Tracheal Mites, Nosema |
No supers onNosema treatment secondary to Fall treatment |
| Spring |
Fruit Bloom, Spring Flowers |
Varroa, American Foulbrood, European Foulbrood Tracheal Mites |
No supers on |
| Late Spring/Early-Summer |
Clovers, Spring Flowers |
Tracheal Mites |
Supers onTracheal treatment with vegetable shortening year round |
| Summer |
Clovers |
None (Emergency Varroa Treatment) |
Supers on (remove for emergency treatment) |
| Late Summer/Early Fall |
Golden Rod, Asters |
Varroa, American Foulbrood, Tracheal Mites |
No supers on |
| Fall |
Asters |
Nosema, American Foulbrood, Varroa, Tracheal Mites |
No supers on |
| Winter |
None |
None |
Prepare for spring |
American Foulbrood
Description and Spread
The disease called American Foulbrood, or AFB, is caused by the bacterium Bacillus larvae. (There is a new name for this disease. Since it is not yet widely accepted we will use the more familiar name.) AFB has plagued both bees and beekeepers from the earliest days of U.S. beekeeping. Bacillus larvae is a spore-forming bacterium. Spores are extremely hardy and can survive in dormancy for thirty-five years or more. Spores are easily transported by either infested bees or infected equipment. Beekeepers moving contaminated equipment are, by far, the greatest source of AFB spread.
Symptoms:
Visual signs of AFB begin to show up in the hive after young, susceptible larvae eat the spores that have been mixed in the brood food fed by nurse bees. If left untreated, infection spreads rapidly spreads until the colony population is so weakened it dies during cold months by the ravages of the wax moth, or just by sheer lack of population, since all larvae die.
Symptoms of American Foulbrood
1. Brown, decaying prepupa or early pupal stages
2. Spotty brood patterns
3. Punctured, ragged often sunken cappings
4. Musty decay odor (somewhat like sour, wet boots)
Symptoms of American Foulbrood that are occasionally present
1. Dead brood with the tongue sticking up from the carcass
2. Mucilaginous consistency of some pupae that will sting out about an inch when punctured
3. Dried pupal skins, in the form of a brittle scale, stick to the bottom sides of infected cells (difficult to see)
Treatment of American Foulbrood
Burning infected equipment and destroying infected bees is the only way to completely eradicate A.FB. Though effective, total colony destruction is a radical recommendation. Presently, oxytetracycline hydrochloride (Terramycin) is the only approved antibiotic for controlling the growth and development of Bacillius larvae within the gut of the larvae. It does NOT kill spores, therefore the disease may re-express itself shortly after antibiotic applications are stopped.
Treatment Doses
Stop all antibiotic treatments six weeks before the nectar flow starts. it is important to confirm dose recommendations with your state apiarist. Dose rates and recommendations may vary from state to state.
1. Terramycin/Powdered Sugar Mixture: Mix one 6.4oz package of TM25 with 1.5-2.0 pounds of powdered sugar. Place this mixture on the tops of frames, along the outer edges of the brood frames. Usually, three dustings at 4-5 day intervals is considered to be one treatment per hive. You can retreat when all this dust has been consumed. Stop all treatments six weeks before surplus honey supers are added.
2. Antibiotic Extender Patty: Mix 1/3 pound of vegetable shortening (e.g. Crisco) with 2/3 pound granulated sugar. Add two tablespoons of TM25 to the mixture. Press into two half-pound patties and place on colony, on the top bars of the brood frames. Place between brood chambers if using two. Remove at least six weeks before adding surplus honey supers.
When to Treat
Early Spring before supers are put on. Actually, treatments can occur any time that surplus honey is not being produced. So, if you discover an outbreak in Summer or Fall, remove honey super and either dust or use a patty. Losing a colony is probably more expensive than losing a portion of your honey crop.
European Foulbrood
Description and Spread
Essentially, European Foulbrood (EFB) is the little brother of American Foulbrood. Another bacterium, Mellisococcus pluton, is credited with causing the symptoms associated with EFB - though other bacteria probably play a role. The major difference between the two brood diseases is that EFB does NOT produce spores: therefore, its persistence and effect on honey bees is greatly reduced when compared to AFB. Though described as early as 1771, not very much is known about EFB. No doubt it is spread by both drifting bees and beekeepers. EFB attacks colonies in mid to late spring and has been occasionally called a stress disease. EFB is not normally considered to be serious, but since it resembles AFB, it should be treated with care.
Symptoms
Infected larvae usually die in the coiled larval "C" shape while larvae infected with AFB die stretched out. Initially larvae are yellow before changing to brown and eventually changing to black.
Symptoms Of European Foulbrood
1. Spotty brood pattern
2. Twisted yellow-colored larvae
3. Sour, somewhat putrefied odor
4. Larvae dries to a rubbery scale
5. Watery body fluids
Symptoms of European Foulbrood that are Occasionally Present
1. Larvae dying in the extended position
2. Mucilaginous stringiness usually less than one inch
Treatment and Treatment Doses For European Foulbrood
Treatment is the same as for AFB and on the same time frame, generally in late Winter or early Spring.
Varroa Mites
Description and Spread
The arrival and establishment of Varroa mites (Varroajacobsoni) in North America is now historical fact. Within the continual U.S., there are no areas considered to be Varroa mite-free. Originally, the mite was a parasite on Apis cerana, the Asian honeybee. By inadvertent beekeeper spread, the mite is presently found throughout the world except for New Zealand, Australia. and Hawaii. It's first detection in the U.S. was in 1987. Varroa is a large tortoise-shaped mite that is colored rusty-red. The mite is a bit less that 1/16" across and is easily visible with the unaided eye.
Symptoms
Initially the presence of Varroa is unnoticeable in the hive. Several months to several years may be required for mite populations to built up enough for them to be easily seen. By that time, both the adult and brood population is heavily infested and colony's death can occur rapidly.
Symptoms of a Varroa Infestation
Colonies dying with abundant honey stores is a strong clue that Varroa mites were present in high numbers. Wingless or deformed bees that are either dead or maimed are also symptomatic of Varroa infestations. In such cases, mites can usually be found under the cappings enclosing larvae. Beekeepers within the continual U.S. should assume that Varroa mites are present within their colonies. Approved treatments should be initiated on a regular basis.
Treatment for Varroa Mites
Use one Apistan strip (Active Ingredient - fluvalinate) for each five combs of bees or less in each brood chamber. Hang strips within two combs of the edge of the bee cluster (not necessarily the edge of the super). Apistan strips must be in contact with brood nest bees at all times. For best results, use strips when daytime temperatures are at least 50 F.
When to Treat
Treat in the spring before honey supers are put on and in the fall after supers have been taken off. Leave strips in place 42-56 days (6-8 weeks). However, you should be monitoring your colonies throughout the season. If, during the Summer you find, using a ether roll, more then five mites, you should seriously consider sacrificing your remaining honey crop and treat immediately. Again, losing a colony is more expensive than losing a partial honey crop.
Tracheal Mites
Description and Spread
Tracheal Mites (Acwapis woodi are microscopic and live within the honeybee's respiratory system (predominately the prothoracic spiracle). They were first described in England in 1919 and were not found in the U.S. until 1985. Research and development of information concerning the effects of Tracheal Mites have been given secondary status while control stratagems for Varroa have been developed. There are differing opinions as to how much of a threat Tracheal Mites are to U.S. beekeeper - especially for those who keep bees in warm climates.
Symptoms
Infected colonies have dwindling populations, do not cluster well, and often die in the winter (February and March), frequently leaving behind large amounts of honey. Infested adults may act irritated or disoriented. Weak adults may be found crawling aimlessly near the hive entrance. Microscopic examination of the bees' respiratory system is required to conclusively show the presence of the Tracheal Mite. Authorities disagree as to the seriousness of the effects of Tracheal Mites on honey bees. Simply finding Tracheal Mites within the dissected bee does not always mean that disease symptoms will be expressed within the colony.
Treatment for Tracheal Mites
Two materials, vegetable oil patties (Grease Patties) and menthol, are useful in suppressing Tracheal Mite populations.
(1) Vegetable shortening patties. Mix solid vegetable and sugar in a 1:2 ratio. The patty should be about the size of a hamburger patty (about 1/4 pound), and placed as close to the center of the brood nest as possible.
When to Treat with Grease Patties
Treatment with grease patties can be continuous. (If Terramycin is added to control American Foulbrood, patties should be taken off six weeks before surplus honey production.)
(2) Menthol Treatments. A 1.8 oz (50 grams) packet of menthol crystals in a porous bag (usually supplied) per two story colony, is put on in the spring or secondarily in the fall. Leave the packet on for 14-28 days with the entrance reduced. If it is above 80 F, put the packet on the bottom board. Below 80 F, place the packet on the top of the brood nest. Menthol vaporization can be erratic and may require fine-tuning in different areas.
Nosema Disease
Description and Spread
Nosema is caused by the protozoan, Nosema apis. Nosema infections have been compared to high-blood pressure in humans. It may be within a colony's population for years but may not express any symptoms. Cool, wet spring seasons seem to aggravate the development of latent Nosema. Beekeeper manipulations and robbing or drifting bees are the primary means of the spread of Nosema. Nosema apis is a spore-forming protozoan.
Symptoms
Extreme fecal markings on the hive's exterior is a common indicator of Nosema. However all dysentery infections are not due to Nosema. Bees, with swollen abdomens and unhooked wings, crawling in front of a fecal-spotted hive are general indicators of Nosema - though those symptoms could also indicate other non-related problems. Internal examination of the infected bee would be required to tell if Nosema is the causative agent.
Treatment for Nosema
The antibiotic Fumadil-B (fumagillin) gives excellent control of Nosema. Fumadil-B should be mixed in cool sugar syrup at label rates and fed as early in the Spring, and again as late in the Fall as possible.
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| Body Care Questions |
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| How do I make Lip Baum? |
To make peppermint lip Balm, you will need the following:
1 oz. pure, Filtered Beeswax
1/2 cup Sweet Almond Oil
1/2 teaspoon Vitamin E Oil
1/4 teaspoon Aloe Vera Concentrate
1/2 teaspoon Peppermint Essential Oil
Instructions:
Combine Beeswax, Sweet Almond oil, Vitamin E oil and Aloe Vera concentrate in a small, pourable container (a glass measuring cup works well). Place this container in a saucepan filled with approx. 2 inches of water. Heat the mixture over medium heat until beeswax is completely liquefied. Remove from heat and add essential oil. Pour into containers. Cool completely before use. Makes approx. two dozen 5 gram (.15 oz.) pots or tubes.
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How do I make bath salts? |
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| How do I make bath bombs? |
To make Bath Bombs, you will need the following:
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| Candle Making Questions |
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| What Kind of Wick Do You Recommend For Glass Container Candles? |
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We recommend a paper core wick for two reasons:
1) it has better burning qualities and
2) its ease of application.
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How Do I Remove Old Wax From Glass Containers? |
We recommend you take the following steps to remove left over wax from your glass containers:
- Place the glass container in a pan of hot water with a trivet underneath the glass to keep it positioned off the bottom of the pan.
- Place the pan on your stove with the burner set at low to maintain a high water temperature. Don't Let the ·water boil unless you are absolutely sure your glass container can withstand such extreme heat.
- If the sides of your container are straight - you may withdraw the wax "plug" in approximately 15 minutes by pulling up on the wick. If, however, your container has a small opening you will have to wait, of course, until the wax plug has melted enough to remove through the smaller opening. Any liquid wax remaining may then be poured into a small container - NOT YOUR SINK.
- Wipe clean the interior of the glass with a paper towel and you're ready to pour a new candle.
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| How Do I make gel candles? |
To make gel candles you will need:
4 pieces medium paper core wicking (4-5" lengths)
4 wick tabs
24 oz. Gel Candle Wax
2 teaspoons Fragrance Oil (of your choice)
4 clear glass votive holders (2-3" diameter, 2-3" tall)
heart shaped hard candies or conversation hearts
needle nose pliers
Wick Bar or pencil
Thermometer
Instructions:
Assemble tab and wicking by clamping wick tab onto the end of the wicking with needle nose pliers. Suspend this assembly from the top of your votive holder either with a wick bar or with a pencil. Center the wick tab at the bottom of your votive holder and keep the wick as straight as possible. The wick tab should just slightly touch the bottom of the votive holder. Pour candy around wick tab and wicking. Melt Gel Candle Wax in pan on stove top over low heat for 10-15 minutes or until liquefied. Do not melt gel in microwave. Do not heat the wax above 220°F or smoking may occur. Monitor temperature by using a thermometer. When gel is completely liquefied, remove from heat and add fragrance. Stir gently until fragrance is evenly dispersed. Let gel cool to 180-190°F. Using protection for your hands, carefully transfer the melted gel to a glass measuring cup and then pour into votive holders. Let candle cool completely before handling (approx. 1-2 hours). For best results, keep wick trimmed 1/4" from candle surface. Makes approx. 4 votive candles.
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HONEYSTIX Questions |
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| How Do I Open A HONEYSTIX? |
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Bite or pinch open the heat seal at one end, or cut the end with scissors.
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HONEY Questions |
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How Do I Substitute Sugar With Honey in Recipes? |
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Substitute equal amounts of honey for sugar, up to one cup. Then reduce the total amount of other liquids by 1/4 cup for every cup of honey used.
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hould I Store Honey In The Refrigerator? |
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Honey should be stored at room temperature rather than in the refrigerator. Keep it tightly covered and in a dry place.
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What Should I Do If My Honey Starts To Crystallize? |
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Place its container in hot water until the honey reliquifies.
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Soap Making Questions |
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Soap!!
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How Do I Color My Soap? |
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How Do I Best Scent My Soap? |
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| How Do I Mold Melt and Pour Soap? |
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How much beeswax should I add to my soap in order to make a harder bar? |
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Try to keep the percentage of beeswax in a formula to around 1.5 percent of the total fats and oils which equates to 1/4 oz. of beeswax per pound of fat. Too much beeswax makes the bars sticky and gummy, and inhibits lathering.
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